Pole Pole Bungalows

Overview

As the name, meaning ‘slowly, slowly’ in Swahili, would suggest, life at Pole Pole is in the slow lane. Guests staying at this boutique dive resort will have ample time to relax, unwind and disconnect from the hustle and bustle of life. Made up of seven bungalows and two family suites, this is a small and rustic bolthole from which to explore the quiet charm of Mafia Island. This is a different kind of luxury, made up of simple pleasures, where dining with your toes in the sand or relaxing on your veranda with a view out to sea is the flavour of the day instead of marble floors and air conditioning. 

In Depth

Each of the seven bungalows and two family suites is perched on a gentle slope above the Indian Ocean, and the ocean breeze takes the place of air conditioning, allowing a constant flow of air through the room on hotter days. The décor is simple and rustic, with splashes of colour and the bungalows are very charming. A daily set menu with just a couple of options showcases a wonderful blend of local and Italian cuisines, with something to cater to all dietary requirements. Service is relaxed and friendly and perfectly in keeping with the location, delivered with a genuine warmth. The main areas offer plenty of spots to enjoy a siesta or play a game of bao, which is enjoyed throughout the Spice Islands in particular. Due to the heavily tidal nature of the area, swimming is not always possible from the beach, but Pole Pole has a lovely pool for guests to enjoy when the tide is low.

The Diving

Diving couldn’t be easier when staying at Pole Pole, with Mafia Island Diving picking guests up by boat from the beach daily and dropping them off after visiting Mafia’s best dive sites. The dive centre itself is only a short distance from the lodge, and kit can be hired or stored on the first day of holiday, with the team looking after the equipment for divers.

Guiding here is fantastic, with local divemasters championing and showcasing the best of Mafia’s macro and reef life. Diving is dictated by the tide schedule, with two-tank mornings and single tank afternoons planned to match the best conditions. This allows for the best possible visibility and current conditions. Dives are conducted from Mafia Island Diving’s small fleet of local dhows which is particularly special as divers can return under sail after a full day out on the reefs.  

Beyond the Reef

Those heading to Mafia Island between October and March should without a doubt head out on a whale shark snorkelling trip with Kitu Kiblu who operate responsible trips and work to study and preserve these gentle giants. They are present year round in these waters but best seen at this time of year, when they congregate to feed at the mouth of the Rufiji river.

From Pole Pole, guests can enjoy a quiet afternoon kayaking through mangroves or we can arrange private dhow trips to secluded lagoons for a swim with stingless jellyfish. History buffs will enjoy a visit to local ruins and nature lovers can enjoy a guided birding tour. Mafia Island is very underdeveloped, and grabbing a tuk tuk and heading to a local market allows visitors to experience local life in an authentic manner at their own leisure.